Q: The bonnet of my coupé does not open when I pull the lever.

A: Assuming that the cable length is correctly set up, the problem is in the two rubber bumpers at each side of the bonnet slam line (on the shut panel above the headlights). They get flattened with age and need readjusting since their rubber resilience is responsible for the jumping up of the bonnet. It is extremely easy to break the stud on which they are bolted to the front panel. So with great care and penetrating oil free them and readjust their height. I bet it will work OK. Keep the bonnet rubber bumpers soft by regular applications of vaseline.
- Andrea -

Q: Loose engine hood lock.

The lock of the engine hood doesn't open when I pull the lever. To open it I have to block the lever in the pull position. Also the hood moves a bit up and down while driving. I dismantled the lock but there seems no visible wear on the parts examined. Also there seems nothing to be missing. Consequences of this phenomenon: potential opening of the hood during driving, failure on MOT (APK) and inconvenience to open the hood. Any clues on how to solve this?

A: I have had the same problem with some of my cars and those of friends. It seems to happen mostly with S1 cars with aluminium bonnets. I am not sure what the cause is, but if I have to bet, I would say because the alu does not have the long term "spring action" as the steel hoods do.

There are adjustable rubbers at both ends of the member where the lock is. You may try setting them a bit higher by turning them CCW. There may be a locking nut on the thread from beneath. Check that. Usually this does not help with the alu hoods. It will only result in raising the bonnet above the level of the wings. But try it first anyway and make sure the sides of the bonnet are at least not lower than the wings.

The very first 1200 coupes had double leave springs mounted onder the lock which pushed against the pin on the hood. I had some of those made, but have never come around to mounting them.

What I did so far was lowering the lock a bit. From the bottom it is bolted to the cross member with four bolts. By putting washers between the lock and the cross member I was lucky enough to solve the problem.

Make sure there is enough clearance left for the radiator cap (use one with two ears, not with four) and for the carbs.

I think, but I am not entirely sure, that I was able to do it without removing the grille.

A2: I have just stripped a S1 rallye 1.3 and noticed that the rubber strips mounted under the bonnet at the front of the bonnet have worn thin near the lock. I think these have a function in releasing the bonnet when the lever is pulled. I don't know if these rubbers are available new, but when I assemble the car again, I will try if putting a piece of plastic hose inside the rubber may restore the release function. I think it will.
There is very little clearance between the radiator cap and some parts of the carburettors, thickening the rubber strips under the bonnet will be much better than lowering the lock.

Huib