The brake bleeding sequence for all Fulvias with split dual circuit brakes (in practice all 2nd and 3rd series cars) is:

1. front top nipples (left and then right or viceversa, it does not matter even if the car is RHD),
2. then the two front center nipples and
3. finally the two rear nipples.

S2 and S3 cars have a brake force limiter which is operated by the rear axle. When bleeding the car, its rear wheels should be on the ground or if axle stands are used, they should be place under the rear axle, not anywhere under the car bottom.

Nipples can seize up in the calipers and require gentle action to release them. Try penetrating oil first after having carefully brushed off all dirt with a stiff brush (not a wire brush) and let the oil soak the treads for a few hours.

Ideally you should use the special spanners for brake bleeding because although they are open ended they can grab several flats of the nipple rather than just two. Unfortunately, to my knowledge, even the best brake bleed spanners are usually too large to fit comfortably the bleed nipples. Hence, you should use a good quality open end spanner while hoping that someone had not ruined the nipples in his previous attempts. Once you have a secure hold on the nipple it is important to avoid using force since the nipple can simply snap off and then you have to use a new caliper! One possible solution is to tap gently the free end of the spanner until a little movement is felt.

Once the nipple is free, the best way to bleed the brakes is to use a commercial self bleeding system with an one-way valve (first read the instructions carefully). Make sure that the old fluid is fully replaced by the new one which is flowing out of the nipple without air bubbles. The brake master cylinder must be kept full of fluid all the time to avoid drawing air into the brake lines. When the air is out, the nipple can be very gently tightened (really minimal torque is required). I also smear the nipple treads with copper-based grease and I make sure that the plastic cap is back on the nipple.

It is not rare to find out that repeated attempts with the brake pedal to bleed the system are ineffective. This problem may be due to internal corrosion of the brake master cylinder: if corrosion is advanced and cannot be honed with a brake honing tool you need a new master cylinder. Another possibility is that the master cylinder seals are worn. In this case simple replacement will solve the problem. If you note a blackish looking brake fluid inside the master cylinder when you look in the engine bay, then you are likely to have a problem with the brake master cylinder. As usual prevention is better than repair and changing brake fluid (which of course is hygroscopic) frequently (every two years) will help to avoid this problem.
- Andrea -

Q:Thanks for the tip on loading the limiter valve. Would love to know the correct procedure to bleed the brakes on a Fulvia Berlina GTE, as they do not at present stop the car at all well.
Regards Terry Julien

A: The brake bleeding sequence for a Fulvia GTE saloon should be: front calipers first (it does not matter if starting with the left or right hand side one), brake limiter valve (this should have a bleed nipple unlike the S2-S3 type) and then the rear calipers. S1 master cylinders are known to suffer from internal corrosion. If the car pulls to one side when braking, it is likely that one piston in a brake caliper has seized up. I think to remember that on S1 cars caliper pistons were similar to those fitted to contemporary Jaguars.
I suspect however that the car has a master cylinder problem rather than air in the brake lines.
Andrea -